Mu buryo bwari busanzwe, imyenda bamwe bambaye wasangaga yoherezwa mu bihugu byazobereye mu kuyitunganya nka Pakistan cyangwa Malaysia, igasubizwa ku isoko ahanini mu bihugu bya Afurika n’ibindi bidafite inganda zikora imyenda.
Habarwa ko ubucuruzi bwo kohereza mu mahanga imyenda yambawe ku Isi bufite agaciro ka miliyari enye z’amadolari, ariko muri iki gihe abaturage bari gutera umugongo bene iyi myenda kurusha uko byigeze kubaho.
Ni igikorwa kiri gutuma abari batunzwe na caguwa batekereza kabiri, ku buryo bagomba gukomezamo imirimo mu gihe isoko rya bene iyi myenda riri kugenda riba rito, haba mu ngano n’agaciro ka caguwa iri kugurwa.
Ibihugu byo mu karere ka Afurika y’Iburasirazuba birimo u Rwanda, Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania, Sudani y’Epfo n’u Burundi, mu 2016 byemeranyije umwanzuro wo guhagarika itumizwa ry’imyenda yambawe bitarenze 2019.
Nk’uko imibare y’Umuryango w’Abibumbye yakusanyijwe na BBC ibigaragaza, ingaruka z’ibyo bikorwa zimaze kwigaragaza haba mu nganoy’ibicuruzwa, kimwe n’inganda zari zibeshejweho na caguwa.
Imbonerahamwe zigaragaza igabanuka ridasanzwe muri caguwa yacurujwe guhera mu 2016, mu gihe mbere yaho kugeza mu 2014, hari izamuka rikomeye mu bucuruzi bwa caguwa, mu kuyitumiza no kuyohereza mu mahanga.
Bamwe batangiye gufunga imiryango
Leta Zunze Ubumwe za Amerika nka kimwe mu bihugu bya mbere mu kohereza mu mahanga imyenda ya caguwa, yabaye mu ba mbere mu kugaragaza impungenge ku ngaruka z’ikumirwa rya caguwa.
Umwaka ushize, Ibiro by’Intumwa ya Amerika ishinzwe Ubucuruzi, byatangaje ko bigiye gusuzuma niba u Rwanda, Tanzania na Uganda byakomeza kwinjiza ibicuruzwa bimwe na bimwe ku isoko rya Amerika bidaciwe umusoro, muri Gahunda izwi nka AGOA (African Growth and Opportunity Act).
Ni nyuma y’ubusabe bw’ishyirahamwe ry’inganda za caguwa muri Amerika (Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association, SMART), ryavugaga ko guhagarika itumizwa ry’imyenda n’inkweto byambawe biri guteza ikibazo gikomeye cy’ubukungu mu bucuruzi bw’imyenda yambawe.
Gusa Perezida Paul Kagame yavuze u Rwanda rudashobora gufata gahunda yo guteza imbere inganda zirimo n’izikora imyenda, ngo umuntu avuge ngo ‘Oya’ nubikora ndaguhana”. Yakomeje agira ati “twe hari ukundi tubyumva.”
Bamwe mu bakoraga ubucuruzi bujyanye na caguwa, barimo umuryango wa Ross Barry wari ufite uruganda rutunganya imyenda ya caguwa mu myaka 30 ishize, LMB Textile Recyclers mu Bwongereza, ubu ahamya ko nta bantu nkabo benshi basigaye muri ubu bucuruzi.
Yavuze ko mu myaka itanu ishize hari ibigo biri hagati ya 60 -70 byahagaritse ibyo bikorwa, ndetse uru ruganda rwe LMB rwagabanyije abakozi, bava mu 100 none ubu hasigaye 20.
Fee Gilfeather ushinzwe kumenyaknisha ibikorwa muri Oxfam, ikigo gicuruza imyenda yambawe y’abagore, yavuze ko urwego rw’imyenda ruri guhindura isura ugereranyije n’uko rwahoze.
Ibyo ngo bigaragaza ko icyo inganda zikeneye ari uguhindura imyenda yambawe ikavanwamo ibindi bintu, aho kuyigarura ku isoko uko yakabaye.
Ikigo gikomeye nka Hennes and Mauritz kizwi ku izina ry’ubucuruzi rya H&M, giheruka kugirana amasezerano n’ikigo cyo muri Hong Kong, Hong Kong Institute of Textiles and Apparel, ngo gitere inkunga ubushakashatsi buzazana uburyo bwo gutunganya imyenda ivangavanze nka cotton na polyester, bikaba byavanwamo imyambaro yindi.
U Rwanda nta gusubira inyuma
Minisitiri w’Ubucuruzi n’Inganda, Vincent Munyeshyaka, yabwiye IGIHE ko iyo urebye muri iki gihe ibyo u Rwanda rwohereza mu mahanga byazamutse cyane kugeza kuri 53%, kandi mu byabigizemo uruhare harimo n’inganda zikora imyenda.
Yakomeje agira ati “Mu cyanya cyahariwe inganda mu Mujyi wa Kigali tumaze kugiramo inganda zigera kuri enye kandi nini ziri muri ibi bikorwa byo gukora imyenda no kuyohereza hanze, ku buryo ibyo twohereza hanze byiyongereye cyane.”
“No kuba mu byo dutumiza hanze byaragabanyutse harimo n’uko caguwa iza mu gihugu nayo yagiye igabanyuka.”
Yavuze ko urwego rw’inganda zikora imyenda n’inkweto zimaze gufata umurongo no kubona amasoko ahagije hanze haba muri Amerika no mu Burayi nko mu bihugu by’u Bwongereza, u Budage n’ahandi.
Naho ku kijyanye no kuba ibihugu byo muri aka karere bizabasha kuba byahagaritse caguwa bitarenze mu 2019, Munyeshyaka yavuze ko ibihugu bitari kugendera ku muvuduko umwe.
Yakomeje agira ati “Ikigaragara ni uko u Rwanda turimo gutera intambwe ndende kandi ni mu nyungu z’ubukungu bw’igihugu cyacu.”
Minisitiri Munyeshyaka yavuze mu nganda zikomeye u Rwanda rumaze kugira harimo nka C&H Garment imaze kugira ibyiciro bibiri by’inganda ubu hakaba hari kubakwa icya gatatu, Albert Supply, n’urundi ruganda ruri mu Karere ka Musnze.
Izi nganda kandi ziri gutanga imirimo ku Banyarwanda, kuko ngo nka C&H yonyine imaze kugira abakozi 1500, icyiciro cya gatatu nicyuzura ikazaba ifite abakozi bagera ku 4000.
